Thursday, 27 February 2020

Blue Monday No.7


Blue cheese divides cheese eaters. Some, like me, actively enjoy the taste of veins of Penicillium in their cheese, others naïvely limit their consumption to examples un-invaded by blue mould. Of course, when that first ground-breaking cheesemaker approached the cheese version of the Dragon’s Den panel with a cheese mouldy to the core, I expect he was met with some scepticism. But the proof is in the eating, and you don’t eat with your eyes, you eat with your mouth. A myth disproved by countless dishes that look horrendous but taste phenomenal.  

One can usually associate an increase of a cheese’s blueness with an increase of its strength of flavour and I have always enjoyed a powerful punch to the palate, be it a full bodied tannic red wine or marmite on a salty buttered crumpet. Life’s recipes sometimes need the wildcard addition of flavour that blue cheese can provide, on a burger, in a soup or improving a salad immeasurably.

Blue Monday No. 7 is a semi soft cheese that is part of the range produced by former Blur bassist Alex James. A strong USP and if I’m being honest, the primary reason for my purchase. With regards to the band, I never really appreciated them as the Britpop powerhouse that they were during their heyday. But then, I was still at primary school when Blur were charting at number one. As a teenager with an iPod, I had access to the back catalogue of music in its entirety and Blur did not pass me by. Although the band probably had equal play counts to Darren Styles so I am fully aware that I am in no way qualified to critique music.



The cheese’s name comes from music too, the title a classic in its own right by New Order that references the third Monday in January, apparently the most depressing day of the year. Mr James will no doubt be pleased to hear that upon trying his creation I felt the opposite of depressed. In fact, I was delighted by the mellow, creamy result of his endeavours that maintains a subtlety of flavour and faintly sweet taste. If I was inclined to draw parallels between blue cheese and Blur songs, and I absolutely am, then Blue Monday No. 7 reflects the gentle complexity and understated emotion of Tender (1999). While your bold Stilton would be represented by the brash Song 2 (1997) and a characterful Roquefort may summon notes of Parklife (1994), this cheese has a more nuanced effect on the palate. As cheese singles go (I know), it’s great to belt out in the shower, but it’s not a good tone-setter for a house party.

If I could only listen to one era of music, it wouldn’t be 90’s Britpop and if I could only eat one blue cheese it probably wouldn’t be this one. That takes nothing away from a very capable example of an easy to eat cheese. A little like Gorgonzola, it would go well in a blue cheese salad, or as a second blue on a large cheeseboard but it perhaps hasn’t reached the heights of the traditional British blue cheeses.

If Mick Jagger comes out with a Shropshire Blue then maybe that would be the time to examine the cheese/music relationship, and I for one am looking forward to that.

As for its hard to digest pun rating, Blue Monday No. 7 is somewhere between three and four stars, leaning towards an Aver-aged cheese.

             Camem-bare it
☆☆           Cheesed off
☆☆☆       Aver-aged
☆☆☆☆    Goud-a
☆☆☆☆☆ Un-brie-lievable

(I understand your confusion and disgust, and for that I am sorry)


Monday, 10 February 2020

Perl Wen

This week I am tackling a Welsh cheese. Appropriate, as at this time of year when the Six Nations are in full flow is where I really contemplate my place in this United Kingdom of Britain. I have lived 24 of my 30 years in Wales, a decent chunk of it by choice. I love everything about the country, except the nationalism, the Newport tunnel and the Welsh rugby team. I was born in England with Scots, Irish and German heritage (the latter yet to truly make their mark in the rugby sphere) and call myself British, rather than narrowing my nationality by country, county or village. Like a true band wagon passenger, I have supported England Rugby since 22nd November 2003 when they won the World Cup. The World Cup is something that Welsh fans tend not to get too much into as they perform better in the six nations, where there are only five other teams to compete with.  At this time of year, I do always wonder if I should get into the daffodil hat business. Or dragon face paint stencils. Here it is not just a rite of passage; the cliché is accurate. It is passionate tribalism bordering on religion. Fair play. Best fans in the world.

The things about Wales that I love are more clichés. The craggy coastlines that look more abstract than local artists’ acrylic palette-work in harbourside cafés. The blue-grey stone mountains with sheep on the wrong side of the roadside fence. The language which is a pleasure to roll around the mouth and flick from the tongue like all the culture of a nation has been compressed into one word. I mean, I only know about 35 words in Welsh but I am picking it up slowly. It is a rural Wales that I know, and it is a rural cheese I am going for today.

Caws Cenarth (Caws = cheese, rhymes with mouse) make several cheeses and I have chosen Perl Wen (White Pearl). The most famous Welsh cheese is Caerphilly, best known from the joke, but I have chosen a soft cheese for a change. Plus, it is made 9.4 miles away from my house according to Google maps, so it didn’t have to travel far either. You may wonder which artisan cheesemongers I visited, or perhaps I knocked on the door of the farmyard cheese factory itself? Well, I got it from the Londis up the road, with a Lucozade Orange, a bag of McCoy’s Sizzling King Prawn crisps and 50 litres of diesel. (For the purposes of accurately reviewing the cheese I isolated it from the flavours and aromas of the aforementioned items).



When it came to tasting the Perl Wen, I took it out of the fridge and let it rest on a slate out of the dog’s reach until it had reached room temperature. Similar to Brie, it benefits from the rise in temperature where it loosens its belt and settles into its natural shape like I settle into a post Sunday lunch armchair stupor. The slicing and subsequent removal of a modest triangle of the white-rinded cheese is a pleasure. The glutinous centre sticks to the knife and the cheese reluctantly transitioned to the plate. Of course I licked the knife. The dog looked at me in disgust. I thought how idiotic I would be if I cut my tongue. Thankfully I didn’t which left me in good stead to properly appreciate the tangy, creamy richness of the cheese. It’s a proper glutton appeaser. Its already half melted which means no time is wasted chewing, the flavour fills the mouth and a second triangle follows swiftly after. Perl Wen has all the verve and tenacity of a passionate rugby fan, four pints of Brains SA in, as he sings Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau, hand on heart, an inflatable daffodil around his head.

The rest of this cheese will find itself accompanying smoked bacon and cranberry sauce in a lunchtime toastie tomorrow. A worthy home for a tremendous cheese.

On the unfortunate scale of straight-faced punnery, Perl Wen is at the top end of four star ‘Goud-a’ cheese.

☆              Camem-bare it
☆☆           Cheesed off
☆☆☆       Aver-aged
☆☆☆☆    Goud-a
☆☆☆☆☆ Un-brie-lievable