It’s the
first cheese review of the year, and I am starting with one of my favourites.
It’s probably a cop out to talk about a cheese I know and love, but I have
some in the fridge so here we go.
Every time I
return home to see my family, I undertake what is a now a traditional raid on my
mother’s fridge, food cupboards and wine rack. I think it originates from my
time at university when the highlight of the maternal visit was an all-expenses
paid trip to Morrisons, where the largest trolley would be selected, filled and
generously gifted to the poor and needy student who had spent all his money on
beer. Nowadays I find a big box or a cool bag and under the protesting gaze of
my mother I fill it with charcuterie, organic veg, left over cake, a nice
Picpoul de Pinet or whatever I can find. There is always cheese involved, the
apple didn’t fall far from the tree and I am convinced that this love of cheese
is inheritable.
My latest
supermarket sweep style home visit to see parents, siblings and nephews and
nieces was exceptionally well timed. Two days after Christmas, when leftovers
are still plentiful, but the novelty of special festive purchases has worn off.
The fridge was still groaning with produce and at home, mine was expectantly
empty. I was shepherded away from the New Years Eve champagne towards the
cheese shelf and immediately the striking colour of Belton Farm Red Fox
Vintage Red Leicester caught my eye. My mother being a compulsive food
buyer and the matriarch of a large and hungry family, had bought a kilogram of
it. This boded well for the handpicked hamper that was travelling back with me
next to the dog in the boot. I was graciously awarded a decent wedge of the
cheese amongst a few other interesting samples and was sent on my merry way,
looking forward to eating a cheese board for lunch for the next few weeks.
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| www.beltonfarm.co.uk |
Fast forward
to a few days later, it is time for me to critically consider the cheese in
question. It is lunchtime and I have come in from outside ready to satisfy my
savoury craving. There is no doubt I will reflect on the virtues of the various
cheese vehicle options available, but all you need to know now is that I
selected a Carr’s Table Water biscuit to transport the Red Fox from the
plate to my mouth.
I get ahead
of myself though, this cheese is so aesthetically pleasing. Underneath the fantastically
branded packaging is a Red Leicester that barks out a warning of its bold
flavour with its vibrant russet. When sliced, the cheese crumbles away in
shards and flakes like slate off a Welsh mountain. At this point it is
impossible not to eat a morsel and the buttered cracker on my plate is rendered
useless. The Red Fox doesn’t lend itself to neat slices, but it certainly
suits the slicing and eating then slicing some more method of consumption. It
has a depth of flavour worthy of its colour and popularity. The salty
crystalline crunch is pure pleasure and gives a rustic and robust punch to the
palate. It is simultaneously smooth and sharp, there is a creaminess to it, as
a Red Leicester should have and the taste lingers, an intensified nutty flavour
that is unquestionably moreish.
When it comes
to rating cheese, this is in the top band. I have no method in place, just my
opinion on the day. It’s a five star, 10 out of 10, top notch champion cheese
that I will continue to enjoy as long as they make it.
FL
To
crowbar some puns into this review and form some sort of five point scale I
have come up with the following. Although there is no guarantee I will be able
to stomach using it unironically in future reviews:
☆ Camem-bare it
☆☆ Cheesed off
☆☆☆ Aver-aged
☆☆☆☆ Goud-a
☆☆☆☆☆ Un-brie-lievable
I apologise.
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